Mouse Tester.
Check every button, the scroll wheel, and the side buttons on your mouse. Click, right-click, scroll, and use the back/forward buttons — nothing is uploaded, it all runs in your browser.
Move your cursor over the box below and click, right-click, middle-click, scroll, or press the side buttons — each one lights up on the mouse graphic and logs below.
Right-click here won't open a menu — that's expected, it means the click registered.
Live readout
Event log
Click, scroll, or press a side button to see events here.
Before you start
- Test every buttonLeft-click, right-click, and middle-click (usually a press straight down on the wheel), then try the side buttons if your mouse has them — each should light up here and nowhere should stay silent.
- Watch for double-firingA single click that logs twice in the event log below is a classic sign of a worn micro-switch, not a hardware feature — that's the fault to look out for.
- Scroll both directionsRoll the wheel up and down. The scroll direction readout should flip instantly and match the way you actually turned it, with no skipped or reversed notches.
- Try it wired and wirelessA low battery, a flaky USB receiver, or a loose cable can drop clicks that look identical to a hardware fault — rule out the connection before blaming the mouse itself.
How to test your mouse
- 1Move over the boxPosition your cursor over the test area below — the mouse graphic and readout respond to your real mouse hardware, not to clicking the picture with your existing pointer.
- 2Press each buttonLeft-click, right-click, and middle-click (the wheel) one at a time and watch the matching part of the mouse graphic highlight along with the live stats.
- 3Try the side buttonsIf your mouse has back/forward thumb buttons, click each one to confirm the browser reports them as buttons 4 and 5.
- 4Scroll the wheelRoll it up, then down. The "Scroll direction" readout should update immediately and match which way you scrolled.
What does a mouse test check?
A mouse test checks that every hardware input your mouse can send actually reaches the browser: the left and right buttons, the middle button (usually a click on the scroll wheel itself), the wheel's up/down scroll direction, and — on mice that have them — the two side "thumb" buttons, which browsers report as buttons 4 and 5 and are commonly mapped to Back and Forward.
Testing matters because a failing micro-switch doesn't always go completely silent — it can double-fire (one physical click registers as two), drop clicks intermittently, or work only when pressed at an odd angle. Scroll wheels can skip notches or stick to one direction as the encoder wears. Running through every button and the wheel here, in a page that only reads and discards events, is a fast way to confirm a fault before you open the mouse up or send it back.
When a mouse test helps
Buying secondhand
Run through every button and the wheel before you pay for a used mouse, so a failing click or dead side button doesn't surface after the return window closes.
Diagnosing double-clicks
If single clicks register as two — or a click sometimes doesn't register at all — this test confirms the fault so you can decide whether to repair or replace it.
Setting up new hardware
Check a new mouse's extra buttons work as expected before you assign shortcuts or macros to them in your OS or a game.
Mouse testing terms
- Left button
- The primary button (mouse button 0), used for clicking, selecting, and dragging.
- Right button
- The secondary button (mouse button 2), normally used to open context menus.
- Middle-click
- Pressing straight down on the scroll wheel itself (mouse button 1) — often used to open links in a new tab or for pan/scroll in apps.
- Back / Forward buttons
- The extra thumb buttons on the side of many mice, reported to the browser as buttons 4 and 5 and typically mapped to page Back/Forward.
- Scroll wheel
- The wheel between the left and right buttons; rolling it up or down sends discrete scroll "notches" in a direction.
- Switch chatter (double-firing)
- A worn or dirty micro-switch registering one physical click as two rapid presses — a common cause of accidental double-clicks.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why doesn't right-click open a menu here?
The test area intentionally blocks the browser's right-click context menu so your right-click registers as a button press instead of opening a menu — that's expected behaviour, not a bug. Everywhere else on the web your right-click will still open the normal menu.
My mouse doesn't have a middle or side button — is that normal?
Yes. Plenty of mice, especially compact or older ones, don't have a clickable wheel or the two thumb (back/forward) buttons. If your mouse simply doesn't have those buttons, nothing will light up for them here — that's a hardware limitation, not something wrong with this tool.
What does it mean if a click registers twice?
A single physical click that shows up as two presses in the event log (or in-game as an accidental double-click) usually points to a worn or dirty micro-switch losing contact for a moment and bouncing. It's one of the most common mouse faults and is usually fixed only by replacing the switch.
Why don't my back/forward buttons do anything on this page?
This test only reports the raw button number (4 or 5) — it doesn't need them to navigate anywhere. If they don't light up at all when pressed, check that your mouse driver/software hasn't remapped them to a macro or a different function; some manufacturer software intercepts side buttons before the browser ever sees them.
Does this work with a trackpad or touchpad?
Basic clicks (left/right, and a two-finger click for "middle" on many trackpads) generally work, but scroll gestures and extra buttons are far less consistent across trackpad drivers than on a physical mouse. For a genuine wheel and side-button test, use an actual mouse.